"The Golden Rule: To get top grades, you must name specific fabrics (e.g., Silk, Piqué, Wool) and specific cuts (e.g., Tailcoat, Empire Line). Don't forget: Hair, Make-up, and Accessories count as costume marks!"

The Men: Wealth & Status

The Big Idea: The upper-class men wear "White Tie" (Evening Dress). It is a uniform of high status. It should look rigid, expensive, and impeccable—except for Eric.

🎩 Arthur Birling

Look: "Nouveau Riche" (tries too hard).
Details: Stiff Winged Collar, White Piqué Waistcoat (adds bulk), and a waxed "Toff Moustache". Shows his rigidity.

💍 Gerald Croft

Look: The Aristocrat ("Dandy").
Details: Tailored Wool Tailcoat that fits perfectly, Silk Top Hat, Silver Cigarette Case. He looks natural in wealth.

🥂 Eric Birling

Look: Dishevelled.
Details: Ill-fitting tailcoat ("boy in a man's suit"), untied bow tie, creased shirt front. Pale, clammy make-up suggests fear/drink.

The Outsider: Inspector Goole

The Big Idea: He is the visual antagonist. He does not dress for dinner. He wears "business" clothes, making him look darker, heavier, and "classless" compared to the Birlings.

The Suit (Sack Suit)

A dark, boxy wool business suit. It is functional, not decorative. It contrasts sharply with the delicate tailcoats of the other men.

The Trench Coat

A beige Mackintosh or Trench Coat. He wears it undone to take up more space. It is a timeless garment that makes him seem like a traveler.

Make-up & Hair

Hair: Neat, practical, unstyled (no oil).
Face: Pale and ghostly make-up, or heavy shadows under eyes to suggest he is haunted/tired.

The Women: Silhouettes & Symbolism

The Big Idea: The women's clothes reflect their age and morality. Sybil is armored and protected; Sheila is soft and exposed.

👑 Sybil Birling

The Matriarch.
Deep Jewel Tones (Emerald/Ruby) in heavy Silk or Satin. Uses a Lace Choker and "S-Bend" corset to force a haughty, judgmental posture.

🎀 Sheila Birling

The Innocent.
Pale colors (Cream/Pink) in Chiffon and Lace. An "Empire Line" dress (waist under bust) which is fashionable and youthful.

💄 Hair & Evolution

Sybil: Piled high "Pompadour" hair (Dominance).
Sheila: Soft loose curls. By the end, her make-up should be tear-stained and messy.

📝 Exam Terminology Bank

Piqué (Fabric)

A stiff, durable cotton with a raised waffle pattern. Used for men's white waistcoats to imply a "crisp", wealthy appearance.

Empire Line (Cut)

A dress where the waist is raised to just below the bust. Popular in 1912 for young women, emphasizing innocence.

Sack Suit (Cut)

A loose-fitting business suit (worn by the Inspector). It represents the working world and reality, crashing into the party.

Pompadour (Hair)

Hair swept upwards from the face and worn high over the forehead. Used for Mrs. Birling to give her height and status.

📝 Exam Strategy: The Design Grid

Edexcel Students: You must fill out a table exactly like this in your exam.
AQA Students: Use this structure to write perfect paragraphs (Point ➔ Effect ➔ Terminology).

Element / Effect How would it enhance the extract for the audience? Technical language you could use
Click 'Generate Example' to see a top-band answer...